Indonesian weaving is a vibrant tradition filled with unique techniques, materials, and motifs, it is diverse as the archipelago is large. Traveling in Indonesia and Timor Leste for one month, was not nearly enough to learn all I wanted, but it gave me a beautiful glimpse into a rich cultural heritage that is very much treasured by the Indonesians themselves.
The general term for weaving in Indonesia is *tenun*. There are many styles of woven fabrics, and they differ much from island to island.
Different weaving styles and techniques
*Lurik* is a simple handwoven fabric with striped patterns that originates from Java.
*Ikat* is another prominent technique, where threads are tied and dyed before weaving to create intricate designs. The tying was once done from memory, nowadays most people draw a pattern on the warp and take it from there. Simple ikat is done with white and contrasting color, but more complicated pieces will have multiple shades, which means the warp needs to be tied, dyed, untyed, and re-tied, multiple times.
*Songket* is a luxurious fabric interwoven with gold or silver threads, particularly popular in Sumatra and Bali.
*Endek* from Bali features vibrant colors and distinct ceremonial patterns.
A different size = a different name.
in Indonesia, traditional weavings are often named based on their size, purpose, or regional characteristics. Here are some examples:
Sumatra and Java:
Kain Panjang
A long piece of cloth, typically used as a wrap or for ceremonial purposes.
Slendang
A narrow, long scarf-like textile of about 80-180 cm used as a shawl or baby carrier, or to bring food from the market with.
Sarong
A tube-shaped cloth, created by sewing lengths of woven materials together, worn as a skirt.
Bali and Lombok:
Kamben
A wide piece of cloth worn as a sarong or temple attire.
Cepuk
Smaller, intricately patterned weavings, often ceremonial or decorative.
Nusa Tenggara:
Hinggi (Sumba)
Large, rectangular woven ikat textiles are used as body wraps or ceremonial cloths.
Sekomandi (Sulawesi)
Large ceremonial cloths, often highly symbolic.
Tais (Timor)
Typically smaller handwoven cloths are used for traditional clothing or gifts.
Kalimantan and Papua:
Betang (Dayak textiles)
These are long, narrow woven bands used as adornments or accessories.
Noken (Papua)
a traditional knotted bag made from cloth woven on a backstrap loom.
Trivia of the day: The *gringsing* cloth from Tenganan village in Bali is one of the rarest textiles in the world because it uses a double-ikat technique. Both the warp and weft threads are resist-dyed before weaving, requiring extraordinary precision. What makes it even more special is that the process is believed to have mystical properties. The word "gringsing" translates to "no disease" (*gring* means sick, and *sing* means no), and the cloth is thought to ward off illness and bad spirits. It can take several years to complete a single piece.
How is it made?
Indonesian weaving is done on traditional looms. The *gedogan*, is a backstrap loom, and many women still use this. The loom is tied to a pole of the house and when they are done, they simply fold it and tuck it away. This lady makes Ikat on her handloom on the coast of Sumba island. On Sumba, weaving is a women's business, but the men will help with dyeing and tying.
The *ATBM* (Alat Tenun Bukan Mesin), is a hand-operated loom with two or more shafts. The weaving process involves *pakan* (weft threads) and *lusi* (warp threads), which together form the fabric's foundation.
The Atmb looms are usually in a designated place where a few weavers work together for a boss. The looms are made from wood and the more experienced weavers will work with four-shaft looms to make twill or diamond motives.
This weaver is creating indigo dyed denim at CraftDenim, a studio for eco friendly. handcrafted clothes.
Iconography plays a significant role in Indonesian textiles. *Rangrang*, with its bold triangular patterns, comes from Nusa Penida, Bali. The *tumpal* motif, often found as a border design, features triangles symbolizing protection and strength. Other iconic patterns include *parang*, a diagonal motif from Java, and *sekar jagad*, which symbolizes a map of the world, representing harmony and unity.
During my travels, I found the Sumbanese *ikat* textiles to be deeply rooted in spiritual and cultural meanings. Motifs of horses (a symbol of wealth), chickens (prosperity), crocodiles, and birds appear frequently. Sacred symbols, such as skull trees (*andung*) and geometric arrangements, reflect practices of ancestor worship and ritual traditions.
The symbol that most stood out was the Mamuli, best described as an omega, symbolizing divine femininity.
These motifs are far more than decorative elements. They serve as a visual language that communicates the wearer’s identity and ties to the community. Indonesian textiles are deeply integrated into ritual and ceremonial practices, often used as offerings, gifts for important transitions in life, or as a means of storytelling, making them a profound expression of the island's cultural heritage.