In my previous blog, I shared tips for more sustainable washing practices to care for your naturally dyed clothes. In this blog, let's look into three clean alternatives that are non-toxic and 100% biodegradable.
Long before the advent of chemical detergents in bright plastic bottles and bags, the earth offered its gentle, abundant gifts for cleaning. Among these gifts are soapwort, soap roots, and soap nuts. These plants (parts) are all rich in saponins—nature’s own cleansing agents. These plants have been relied upon for centuries, not just for their cleaning properties but also for their compatibility with delicate and precious textiles like silk, and wool. Today, on my sustainability journey, I want to explore these traditional materials to return to slower, earth-friendly methods of caring for our fabrics.
Looking for a more gentle garment care
My exploration of these natural cleansers began with the intention to discover cleaning materials that respect both the maker—whether weaver, spinner, or dyer—and the wearer. The world of hand-dyed and delicate fabrics, like wool and silk, calls for gentleness. These textiles, often created with care and intention, require solutions that nurture their integrity rather than strip their essence. Chemical detergents, for all their convenience, can leave behind residues that can dull colors or damage fibers over time, while the high pH of it can change color altogether. In contrast, soapwort, soap roots, and soap nuts work in harmony with our fabrics, offering an eco-conscious alternative.
Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis)
This plant first caught my attention while reading about fabric care history. This unassuming plant, with its delicate pink flowers, has long been used for cleaning fragile textiles. In medieval Europe, it was a staple in the care of woolen garments and tapestries. Monasteries often cultivated soapwort in their gardens, so they could use it to care for their garments and tapestries. There was a good reason it was commonly called 'Fuller's Herb", being used in the fulling process of boiled wool in many textile centers in Europe.
Preparation of Soapwort cleanser solution:
The Soapwort saponins release a gentle lather when simmered in water, perfect for washing delicate fibers without the harshness of modern detergents.
Preparing soapwort cleanser is not difficult:
Use a quarter cup of dried soapwort leaves and stems. Place the soapwort in a pot and add one liter (approximately four cups) of water. Heat the mixture gently, ensuring it simmers without boiling, for about 15 to 20 minutes. After simmering, allow the solution to cool before straining out the plant material. The result is a gentle, natural soapwort cleanser ready for use on delicate fabrics, that you can store in the fridge for further use.
Soap roots, (Latin: Saponaria alba) are another natural cleanser that bring a different texture to this story. The dried roots are simply soaked in water to release their natural cleansing agents. With a creamy, frothy lather, soap roots offer an efficient yet mild cleaning solution that preserves the vibrancy and integrity of hand-dyed fabrics.
For example, Persian carpet makers, renowned for their artistry, often relied on natural cleansers like soap roots during the washing stages of the weaving process. After a carpet was completed, it would be washed to remove any residual dirt, oils, or debris from the wool or silk threads. Soap root solutions were ideal for this task because they maintained the vibrant hues of natural dyes like madder red or indigo blue, essential to the beauty of Persian carpets.
Soap Nuts
Lastly: Soap nuts (Sapindus mukorossi), known as 'reetha', have a different story to tell.
Native to South Asia, these dried fruits have been used for centuries as a sustainable cleaning agent.
In India, soap nuts were traditionally used to wash fine silk saris and wool shawls, garments that demand a feather-light touch. Their natural saponins are released when the nuts are soaked in water, creating a mild cleansing liquid that’s effective.
How to use soap nuts in your washing machine
I’ve found soap nuts particularly wonderful for machine washing, as long as they are without the pit or kernel (they stain!). A small muslin bag filled with a handful of soap nuts can replace detergent altogether. After use, dry and use again up to four times. Once the shells become soft and grey, toss them into your compost.
Making a liquid soap nut detergent
Add one cup of soap nut shells to six cups of water in a pot. Bring to a gentle boil and simmer for 45 minutes. Strain the liquid and repeat the step of simmering with the same soap nuts. Add a few drops of essential oils for a nice smell, or add a sprig of rosemary to the liquid.
What is my problem with conventional washing powders?
Many of these detergents are laden with phosphates, synthetic fragrances, and optical brighteners that persist in water systems long after the rinse cycle. These chemicals disrupt aquatic life, create imbalances in ecosystems, and often irritate sensitive skin. The harsh action of such powders can also wear down natural fibers over time, fading colors and weakening their structure. The allure of sparkling white clothes comes at a hidden cost—one that natural alternatives like soapwort, soap roots, and soap nuts gracefully avoid.
Synthetic fibers shed microplastics with every wash, which flow into waterways and contribute to the growing pollution crisis in oceans and aquatic ecosystems. By choosing natural fibers and cleaning them with plant-based solutions, we reduce the harm done to the planet. These fibers are not just biodegradable but also retain a softness and authenticity that synthetic materials cannot replicate.
Limitations of plant-based detergents
Of course, these materials do have their limitations. They won’t tackle the kind of deep stains or industrial grime that modern detergents promise to vanquish (but you could check with the Allerley Matkel for particular stains). They also do not smell as nice, something we can solve with something as simple as an old-fashioned lavender bag in our closet, or adding a drop or two of essential oils. Natural dyes, with their earthy, soulful tones, can be sensitive to harsh chemicals. Soapwort, soap roots, and soap nuts offer an alternative that protects these colors, allowing them to age gracefully.
I encourage anyone working with delicate or handmade textiles to experiment with these natural cleansers. There is a learning curve, yes. It takes time to understand how much soapwort to simmer, how to soak soap roots, or how many soap nuts to use. But this learning is part of the joy. It is a chance to connect with traditions that span centuries and cultures and to honor the ingenuity of those who came before us. And it is a way to move forward with intention, crafting a future that respects both the earth and its people.
My work with natural dyes and handwoven fabrics has always been about more than aesthetics. It is about stewardship, about choosing processes that honor the planet rather than deplete it. Soapwort, soap roots, and soap nuts are small but significant tools in this endeavor. They remind me that sustainability is not a single grand gesture but a series of small, mindful choices.
Ready to dive in?
I have put together a kit of these three materials for you to try!