Linen, a versatile and eco-friendly fabric, has a long-standing tradition of production in the Netherlands.
The first flax cultivation records date as far back as the 13th century. The Dutch linen industry has flourished over the centuries, combining craftsmanship, innovative techniques, and a commitment to sustainability. The Netherlands' temperate climate and fertile soil provide ideal conditions for flax growth.
Over time, the Netherlands became renowned for its exceptional linen production, with cities such as Haarlem, Leiden, and Flanders playing significant roles. Dutch linen gained recognition for its durability, softness, and fine weave, becoming a sought-after fabric across Europe.
Cottage industry
But a large part of the production of linen was a cottage industry for own use. The flax was grown on a farm, for the daughters or the maids. After many processes, the flax was spun into linen threads, after which pieces of cloth were woven on a simple, wooden two-heddle loom, usually sixty-nine centimeters wide and several meters long. Most of the pieces we have seen in the studio are six to ten meters long.
Sheets, pillowcases, shirts, and tablecloths were made from this linen for the trousseau of the young marriageable women. The initials of the young woman were embroidered on the linen. Often there was a special set of sheets and pillowcases for the wedding night. The larger the trousseau, the richer the bride.
The bride also always brought a burial shroud made from the finest linen. This was put on after death and was often in the top left of the cabinet, behind the sheets. The burial shroud had a simple design, often a straight long shirt with three-quarter sleeves and an open neckline. Once finished, the needle was ritually burned to prevent bad luck.
Unused woven linen fabric was artfully folded and rolled into Dookrollen (pronounced often without the last 'e') that was permanently on display in the linen closet. Only when a shirt or sheet was completely worn out and mended often enough was a new roll opened and a piece cut off.
The tradition of the rolls of linen in the cabinet is probably only known in the Achterhoek and Twente and Drenthe. The way the linen is rolled it gets the shape of a heart and two roses; the flowers of love. The rose on the left is the bride's white rose, symbolizing purity, virginity, and virtue; the right one is the groom's red rose, representing the man's blood and passion. The exact shape varies a bit from area to area.
After the wedding, family and friends would come to visit the newlyweds, and a well-stocked linen closet was considered a true showpiece. On visits, the men looked at each other's cows and the women showed their linen closets.
This is how the Dookrollen are made;
Two to four ladies are needed to roll. When the linen has been washed it is placed on the grass to bleach and dry in the sun. Then it can be rolled. No fabric softener was used when washing, and the linen should also not be ironed.
They started by stretching and smoothing the fabric with their hands.
The fabric was then lengthwise folded in half, then half of the could fabric is folded back.
Then a length of about two meters got folded in a zigzag fashion, each strip always slightly shorter than the previous strip, but I've also seen plenty of rolls that are simply rolled from two sides.
A ruler, or scissors were placed in the middle of this strip of fabric.
Now starts the rolling on both sides.
If the pattern is correct, the two rolls are sewn together with a strong thread like this: .
This procedure takes quite a bit of muscle power and a lot of practice.!
The craft of Dookrollen is part of the Dutch intangible heritage, and people do make an effort to keep this tradition alive.
You can see a video of a demonstration here;
And here: (scroll to 5.30)
We have Dutch handspun and handwoven linen like this in the studio, but it is getting harder and harder to find. Often they opened the dookrollen to be able to measure the fabric for sale. I will keep my eyes open for more of this historical textile.
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