I am always looking for textiles that are unique, that have additional meaning, and that support a community. So when I got introduced to a Kechene weaving community in Addis Abeba through connections in Israel and a young man named Abere, I knew I had to overcome all the logistic and cultural challenges to make it work.
Weaving is more than just a craft; it's a thread that ties together cultures, histories, and identities. There is a vibrant weaving tradition that can be found within the Ethiopian Jewish community. The Ethiopian Jewish weaving tradition is more than just a collection of threads; it is a testament to the resilience of a community, a showcasing of cultural knowledge, and a celebration of identity. Through intricate designs and vibrant colors, the weavers of Beta Israel and the Kechene community have woven together stories of history, spirituality, and belonging.
A little backstory: The roots of Ethiopian Jewish weaving tradition can be traced back over 2,000 years to the Beta Israel community's origins in the historical region of Gondar in northern Ethiopia. The Beta Israel themselves claim descent from Menilek I, the legendary son of King Solomon and the queen of Sheba. Traditionally, the Beta Israel have always consisted of many blacksmiths, weavers, pottery makers, and leatherworkers. Separation of the Kechene Jews from Beta Israel, began around 1855, and the Kechene community observe pre-Talmudic Jewish practices.
Threads of Identity and Spirituality
The Jewish Beta Israel community is not only a place of worship and spiritual growth but also a vibrant community that values creativity and craftsmanship. The community members actively engage in various artistic pursuits, producing unique and exquisite handcrafted products. Some of the community products include pottery incorporating traditional Jewish motifs, such as menorahs, Star of David designs, and Hebrew inscriptions. Other members produce metal casting, creating exquisite jewelry, sculptures, and decorative objects.
Jewish weaving traditions.
Weaving is intimately tied to religious and cultural practices. For instance, woven textiles play a central role in religious ceremonies and rituals. Prayer shawls, known as "tallit," are handwoven with care and attention. These textiles hold deep spiritual significance, connecting the weaver's craft to their faith and identity.
One of the most distinctive features of Ethiopian Jewish weaving is its use of "tibeb," a unique applied art of geometric pattern-making, handwoven with supplementary weft into the border of a shawl. These patterns are more than just decorative elements; it is a means of storytelling that conveys deeper meanings and symbolisms related to identity, spirituality, and community. Different patterns may signify stages of life, family connections, or even historical events. These textiles are a visual representation of the Beta Israel's journey, reflecting their perseverance and tenacity.
In this community in Addis Abeba, the women are doing pottery and the men do the weaving. The women assist the men by spinning the threads and wagumb, meaning spinning wheels are used to winding the thread and shalo, the weft or mage, threads on the hollow reed by a hand made bobbin.
The weavers collective uses traditional techniques passed down through generations. The materials most commonly used are hand-spun, Ethiopian-grown cotton, and eri silk threads from the domesticated silkworm species Samia cynthia ricini, a small-scale cottage sericulture in Ethiopia. The use of 100% local materials means this fabric has a super low carbon footprint.
The looms used are either backstrap looms or simple two-heddle wooden looms, made from wooden beams and sometimes places in earthen pits, a trick also used in parts of India to reduce static electricity.
For now, we have cooperated in a design that is undyed and only has simple stripes at the ends. As we continue to collaborate we will work on more intricate designs. The scarves are made from handspun Ethiopian cotton, and the other ones are from handspun Eri silk.
This is a story that no doubt will be continued as I learn more and create deeper connections with the community. Find all our handwoven fabrics with a story here;
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