Indonesia, with its rich biodiversity and long tradition of craftsmanship, is a haven for natural dye enthusiasts. This archipelago of more than 17,000 islands is home to a treasure trove of plant-based dyes, each deeply embedded in local culture and heritage. The lush landscapes provide abundant resources, while centuries-old techniques bring out the vivid hues of traditional textiles like Javanese batik, ikat, and Balinese songket.
My recent travels in the region make me no expert, but I can conclude that there is a very striking palette of complimentary red browns, ochres and deep blues used in the Indonesian batiks and weavings. This is a palette that I appreciate and resonates well with me.
In traditional Indonesian weavings, these colors carry profound cultural and symbolic meanings, often rooted in spiritual beliefs and local traditions. Red, derived from natural sources like morinda and sappan, signifies vitality, strength, and connection to ancestral spirits. Blue, achieved through indigo dyeing, represents tranquility, protection, and harmony with nature. Black, created with mud dyes on an indigo base, embodies the mysteries of the unseen world, serving as a bridge to the divine and a symbol of lifeโs cyclical nature. Ochre, represents fertility, prosperity, and the sustenance provided by the land. Together, these colors form a tangible narrative of life, spirituality, and community identity.
While this blog post will not suffice to describe all (you would need a large book, yes it is in the works), it is the right place to give a nice introduction of the natural dyes I learned about while traveling Java, Sumba and Bali. A special thanks of course goes to all the artisans who allowed me a glimpse into this world, and with special gratitude to my dear friend Inen Kurnia who was the driving force behind the organization of the travel arrangements and connections.
1. Indigo (Tarum)
The captivating blue of indigo is one of the most iconic natural dyes in Indonesia. Derived from different species of Indigofera plants (Indigofera tinctoria, Indigofera arecta, Indigofera longeracemosa), indigo has been used for centuries in regions like Java and Sumba.
The dyeing process involves a meticulous fermentation method, requiring skill and patience. In some places, indigo is made with raw leaves in a large wooden bowl. In other places, indigo paste is used in a vat reduced with palm or cassava sugar.
In Java, indigo is often associated with batik designs, sometimes combined with other natural dyes.
At DekelDyes we sell indigo (longeracemosa) powder from Java.
2. Sappanwood (Kayu Secang)
Sappanwood, from the heartwood of the *Caesalpinia sappan* tree, produces a striking spectrum of reds and pinks. The dye extraction process is straightforward, involving boiling the wood chips to release their vibrant pigments.
This dye is commonly used in Balinese and Javanese textiles. Red is considered a sacred color, often seen in offerings and rituals. It represents energy, life, and courage.
3. Mango Leaves (Daun Mangga)
Mango leaves provide a gentle greenish-yellow hue. The leaves contain a good amount of tannins which is a great base for other, more fugitive, dyes.
This earthy tone is often used in eco-printing and contemporary natural dye crafts. It resonates with the growing appreciation for eco-conscious artistry in Indonesia.
Mango leaves grow freely in my surroundings, but not in northern regions, onion skins of yellow onions could be a good alternative.
4. Turmeric (Kunyit)
A staple in Indonesian kitchens, turmeric also doubles as a vibrant dye source, yielding bright yellow to golden hues. Its application is widespread, often paired with other natural mordants to adjust color intensity. Even though I steer away from turmeric because it is not light fast enough for my liking, I have seen it used quite extensively in weavings around the archipelago and East Timur.
This Tais weaving was gifted to me in east Timur, and you can see the bright yellow stripes that were dyed with turmeric. Other dyes used for this piece are mud dye, sappan and morinda.
5. Morinda (Mengkudu)
The roots of the *Morinda citrifolia* tree are prized for their ability to produce a rich reddish-brown color. We can consider this the madder roots of tropical locations.
This dye is especially significant in the weaving traditions of Nusa Tenggara (the southernmost province of Indonesia) and Bali. The roots get dug up early in the morning and then get to rest overnight.
The next day they are cut up in pieces using a machete, and pounded to a pulp with an oversized wooden pestle and mortar. After that the roots are soaked in water to extract the color, and the ikat-bound threads are soaked and dried multiple rounds in the morinda juices.
6. Areca Nut (Buah Pinang)
The areca nut, from the Areca catechu tree, is also called betel nut, and is best known for being chewed and staining the teeth red. It also finds its place in dyeing. It produces shades ranging from warm browns to muted pinks, depending on its preparation. Fresh areca nuts tend to produce brighter colors, while dried or mature nuts yield deeper tones. With Alum (Potassium Aluminum Sulfate) it produces soft reddish-brown or light pink hues. Iron (Ferrous Sulfate) Darkens the colors to create muted greys or olive-brown tones. Lime or Alkali: Enhances reddish undertones.
An alternative for areca nuts would be Cutch
7. Tingi (Mangrove Bark)
Mangrove bark, particularly from the *Ceriops tagal* species, creates deep browns and blacks. The bark is rich in tannins, making it a preferred choice for dyeing robust, earthy tones. Tingi in Bahasa means tall, or high, referring to the quick-growing shoots of the tree. Mangrove forests are protected in many countries, but in Indonesia it is still possible to buy the bark at the market. At DekelDyes, we sell mangrove extract from a controlled FSC forest.
Jolawe (Terminalia bellirica)
The fruits and bark of this tree yield a soft buttery yellow to a muted brown.
We know this in natural dyeing as myrobalan and use it also for gray and black by the use of ferrous sulfate as a post-mordant. Fun fact: myrobalan seeds are safe to consume and are widely used in traditional medicine systems like Ayurveda and Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM). They are highly regarded for their medicinal properties and are often consumed as herbal teas, powders, or in combination with other ingredients.
Mahogany Bark (Kayu Mahoni)
Mahogany bark produces warm reddish-browns and pinks, often used to complement more vibrant hues like indigo or turmeric. The dyeing process involves boiling the bark to extract its tannin-rich pigment.
Mahogany-dyed textiles are seen as grounding and protective, symbolizing strength and resilience.
10 Cetapang Leaves (Terminalia catappa)
Cetapang leaves are a source of beautiful golden-yellow to olive-green shades, depending on the mordant used. This plant thrives in coastal regions, making it a favorite among coastal dyeing communities. In Sumba and in East Timur I saw the use of Cetapang leaves for mossy greens that work lovely with all the brown shades.
To make moss green you mordant with an alum type mordant, dye with the cetapang leaves to a soft yellow, and post-mordant with ferrous sulfate for a moss green.
It was a big lesson for me to see how knowledge of natural dyeing in Indonesia is passed down through generations, and woven into the social and spiritual fabric of its communities. I can also see how modern challenges like 'easy' chemical dyes, low pay and as a result; dwindling artisanship, threaten these traditions. At Dekel Dyes we will continue to put an emphasis on natural dyeing, and we will support local weavers and dyers. We hope this way to contribute to the continued use of these dyes in the local textile industries.