Birch trees are deciduous trees that belong to the Betulaceae family, which also includes alders and hazels.
There are approximately 60 species of birch trees found throughout the world, with the majority of species native to the Northern Hemisphere.
Birch trees are known for their distinctive bark, which is usually white or light-colored with black markings or horizontal lines. The bark of birch trees is often used for various purposes, including making paper, baskets, and other crafts.
Birch trees typically have thin, delicate leaves that are serrated and arranged alternately on the branches. The leaves are usually oval or triangular in shape and have a pointed tip. Birch trees produce male and female flowers on separate trees, with the male flowers being long, pendulous catkins and the female flowers being smaller and upright. The female flowers eventually develop into small, cone-shaped fruits.
Birch trees are relatively hardy and can grow in a wide range of soil types and conditions. They are often used in landscaping and as ornamental trees in gardens due to their attractive bark and delicate foliage. In addition to their ornamental value, birch trees also have practical uses as a source of wood for furniture, flooring, and other construction purposes. I have also read that in certain countries they source the sap for making syrup or wine.
Birch bark has been used as a fabric dye for centuries, particularly in northern regions of Europe and Asia where birch trees are abundant. Birch bark dye produces a range of colors depending on the specific type of birch, the age of the bark, and the processing method.
The inner bark of the birch tree contains a pigment called betulin, which is responsible for the dyeing properties of the bark. Betulin is a white or light-yellow solid that can be extracted from the bark and used as a dye. Birch bark dye produces colors ranging from soft beige to warm brown or pinks, and can be used to create a natural, earthy look on fabrics. Other compounds that contribute to the dyeing properties of birch bark include betulene, betulone, and lupeol.
As an aside: you can also dye with birch leaves, but they will give you only yellows.
Betulin is also known to have a range of biological properties, including anti-inflammatory, antiviral, and anticancer effects. It has been used in traditional medicine for centuries and is still being researched today for its potential therapeutic uses. In addition to its medicinal properties, betulin has also been used as a raw material for the synthesis of other compounds, such as betulinic acid, which has shown promise as an anticancer agent.
Birch bark is typically collected from mature birch trees in the spring or early summer when the sap is rising. The bark is easiest to remove during this time as it is more pliable and separates easily from the tree.
It's important to note that while birch bark can be harvested sustainably from healthy trees, overharvesting or damaging the tree during collection can harm the tree and impact the ecosystem.
It's essential to follow proper collection methods and regulations to ensure the health and longevity of the birch tree population. Our birch bark is a by-product of birch wood cut from sustainable forests planted in Europe for the production of furniture wood for furniture chains like IKEA.
Lightfastness: The light fastness of betulin, the main dye compound found in birch bark, is relatively low on unmordanted fibers. Light fastness refers to the ability of a dye or pigment to resist fading or discoloration when exposed to light. Betulin has been found to have a rating of 2-3 on the Blue Wool Scale, which is a standardized measure of lightfastness that ranges from 1 (poor) to 8 (excellent). Mordanting with an alum mordant, or even better: a mix of alum and copper sulfate, will increase the lightfastness.
Extracting the pigment: When dyeing with barks and roots I find that a long, overnight soak in cold water really helps to release the pigments used for dyeing. When birch bark is heated in water, betulinic acid and other dye compounds are released into the water and can be absorbed by the fabric. The pH of the water can affect the color produced, I have found that a bit of alkaline in the form of soda ash drastically improved the pink shade I was looking for when dyeing.
This is how I dye with birch bark:
You will need:
Fresh or dried birch bark
Mordanted (usually with alum) fabric to be dyed (preferably made of natural fibers like cotton, silk, or wool)
Large pot for heating bark
Water
Instructions:
Collect or purchase birch bark. You'll need approximately 100-200% WOF of dried birch bark.
If the bark is fresh, dry it thoroughly in a cool, dark place before use.
Place the birch bark in a large pot and add enough cold water to cover the bark by several inches and soak the bark pieces overnight.
Heat the water to just below a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for 1-2 hours, stirring occasionally. The water should now look something like this:
Strain the bark out of the water, you can reuse them for a following exhaust bath by repeating the process of soaking and heating)
Add your mordanted fabric to the dye bath and bring the water back up to a simmer. Continue simmering for 1-2 hours, stirring occasionally, or until you achieve the desired color.
Remove the fabric from the dye bath and rinse it thoroughly in cool water until the water runs clear. You can also use a gentle detergent to wash the fabric if desired.
Hang the fabric to dry, out of direct sunlight.
Keep in mind that the exact shade of your dye will depend on the specific type of birch bark, its age, and the length of time you simmer it. You may need to experiment with different batches to achieve your desired color. Different mordants will produce different shades.
These are my results for dyeing with birch bark on silk charmeuse:
This is the result without the addition of alkaline and a lesser WOF.
