When it comes to natural dyes, there are several options available for textile artists and home dyers.
In our webshop you can find raw dyestuffs, dye powders, and extracts, and very often we will have more than one version for a specific dye material.
In this blog post, we’ll break down the differences between the three and help you decide which option is best for your next dye project.
Raw Dye Stuff
Raw dyestuff refers to the whole or cut-up plant material that can be used to make natural dyes. This can include leaves, roots, bark, flowers, and fruit. Raw dyestuff is often used in traditional dyeing methods, where the plant material is boiled or fermented to extract the color. The result is a concentrated dye solution that can be used to dye fiber or fabric. Raw dyestuff is widely available, but extracting the color can be time-consuming and requires some knowledge and skill.
Raw barks and roots should almost always be soaked and require prolonged heating to extract the color. Straining your dye bath is advised, to avoid staining your fabric.
Examples of raw dyestuffs are dried or fresh whole madder roots, fresh indigo leaves, buckthorn berries and whole tagetes flowers.
Natural Dye Powder
Natural dye powder is the finely ground version of natural dyes. It is made by grinding the raw dyestuff into a fine powder and then drying it. The powder is then reconstituted with water to make a concentrated dye solution. Natural dye powder is convenient and easy to use. The finer the powder, the more yield you will get from the dye powder.
Almost all natural dyes are available in powder form in our webshop.
Natural Dye Extracts
Natural dye extract is a concentrated form of natural dyes that is made by extracting the color from the raw dyestuff using different processes. The extract is then dried and ground and sold as a ready-to-use dye.
There are several methods that can be used to produce natural dye extracts, depending on the type of raw dyestuff and the desired end product.
Solvent extraction: This method involves dissolving the color pigments in a solvent, such as ethanol or acetone, to extract the color. The solvent is then evaporated to leave a concentrated dye extract.
Steam distillation: This method uses steam to extract the color pigments from the raw dyestuff. The steam is condensed, and the color is then separated from the water.
Maceration: This method involves soaking the raw dye stuff in a solution of water and an alkaline substance, such as soda ash, for several hours or days. The color is then extracted from the plant material into the solution, which can then be concentrated to produce the dye extract.
Enzymatic extraction: This method uses enzymes to break down the plant material and extract the color pigments. The enzymes are typically obtained from microorganisms or plant sources.
Natural dye extract is much more concentrated than raw dyestuff or natural dye powder and is easier to use, as the extract is already in a concentrated form. However, some people may not be comfortable with the use of chemicals in the extraction process and may prefer to use raw dyestuff or natural dye powder instead. So how do you decide what is a good fit?
For example: pomegranate rind is easy and cheap to source as a raw dye material when it is in season. Eat the fruit and dry the rinds. But when I dye a large piece, it is more convenient for me to use pre-ground powder from the studio. If I am making a dye paste, it makes no sense to work with powder and I will work with extract instead.
Some dyes are ONLY available in one form or another. Cutch is always a concentrated extract. Safflower is mostly available as a raw dyestuff, because the extract is so expensive it would not make sense to buy it.
Is natural dye extract the same as a lake?
No, natural dye extract and lakes are not the same thing.
A natural dye extract is a concentrated form of natural dyes that is made by extracting the color from raw dye stuff using chemical processes. The extract is then bottled or dried and ground to be a ready-to-use dye.
A lake, on the other hand, is a pigment made by precipitating a dye with an insoluble substance, such as alumina hydrate or calcium carbonate. The resulting pigment is then ground into a fine powder and can be used as a base for oil paints, dye or a colorant in cosmetics, food, and other applications.
In other words, a lake is a form of a pigment, whereas a natural dye extract is a form of a dye. While both can be used to add color to textiles and other materials, they have different properties and applications. Natural dye extracts tend to be more vibrant and can be used directly, while lakes are more stable and can be used in a wider range of applications.
In conclusion, the choice between raw dyestuff, natural dye powder, and natural dye extract depends on your personal preferences and the results you are trying to achieve. If you want to experience the traditional process of natural dyeing and have the time and resources, raw dyestuff is a great option. If you want a convenient and easy-to-use option, natural dye powder or extract may be your best choice. Whatever you choose, natural dyes offer a safe and sustainable alternative to synthetic dyes and are a great way to add color and beauty to your textiles.
In short:
Raw Dyestuffs are exactly what it says: Raw, unprocessed dyestuffs straight from nature, like roots, leaves, or insects.
Dye Powders are dyestuffs that have been processed and ground into fine powder form for easier handling and use.
Dye Extracts are dyestuffs that have been processed further to concentrate and purify the coloring matter for more intense and consistent results.